The Best Damn Cannoli

I really like Italian Pastry Shops, at least more than I ever thought I would. I used to loathe their tendency to over-cream and over-frost, and found their liberal use of nuts unappetizing. And then I went to Isgro's Bakery in the Italian Market. Down to their smallest cookie, Isgro's does it up right. They take pride in each of their glorious creations and should be the paragon of quality control for other Italian shops. While it's still true that many Italian pastries tend to overwhelm, there is serious quality in many of the desserts - Sfogliatella (my favorite! "svoy-a-dell"), Napoleon (although I prefer the French version, mille-feuille), Tiramisu, Almond Macaroons... But the most recognizable and most beloved of all Italian sweets, the cannoli, always seemed a bit overrated, subject to many of the criticisms above.

My first ever cannoli, which was purchased at Termini Bro's in the Reading Terminal, reinforced my uncertainty. "What makes these so damn popular?" I thought, as the crisp shell cracked and the thick ricotta oozed onto my pants. In all fairness, I didn't altogether abandon cannolis. A few months later (the past Christmas), after hearing a couple of rave reviews from Chowhounds and EGulleters, I ventured into the depths of South Philly to give a little place called Varallo Bro's a try. I was actually headed to Potito's, which had just been featured in Rick Nichol's Inquirer column, but it was close to Christmas and the place was hopping. Varallo Bro's was busy, but the line was manageable. I approached the counter worrying that my typical vacillation in front of sweets would incur some South Philly 'tude, so I quickly ordered one ricotta cannoli and got the hell outta the way.

Walking along 10th and Morris, I took my first bite. Heaven I tell ya! Then I knew, I understood why it was advisable to "leave the gun" and "take the cannoli." The shell was light and layered, but crispy enough to sink your teeth into, and best of all the damn thing held up. The ricotta filling was great, not too sweet or overwhelming, and studded with ginger bits and mini-chocolate chips. I was loving every minute. Only one question mark remained, why hadn't I bought a dozen?

Competition: With DeSanka, a sweet little mum-and-pup joint with supposedly knock-out cannolis, closed for business, the competition in South Philly really boils down to Isgro's, Potito's, and Varallo Bro's (I may need to taste a Termini Bro's fresh from their main location on 8th before I fully exclude them). Thanks to VB's, I rank cannolis right up there with sfogliatella as my favorite Italian treat, so I'm sure I will eventually hit all of those spots. If I didn't, I just wouldn't be the Minor Gourmand, now would I?

Varallo Brother's: 1639 S 10th St. (off Morris Ave in South Philly)

Potito's: 1614 W Ritner Street

Isgro's: 1009 Christian St. (off Italian Market)

UPDATE: I just returned from Isgro's; this post elicited a cannoli craving so I decided to treat myself  - let's call it a consolation prize for completing the literature exam I took at eight this morning. Sadly, their "best" cannoli reminded me more of my Termini experience: shell like a pizelle cookie, too-rich ricotta cream. Yea it was ok, but I ate it with a raised brow and again asked myself, "what's all the fuss about." Maybe it's just me...

Comments

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[Rachel]

I'm from Nj close to philly. My family got cannolis from several bakeries to put them to the test. We always enjoy cannolis from Valleros, Terminis, and Isgros. But we tried a new place called Potito's.. when trying them all we were suprised that the ones from potitos were the best!

[Jennifer]

I have tried Termini and Isgro and none come close to Cipoli Cannoli here in Collingswood. The filling is actually flavorful. Even better they have kits (12 bucks) that lets you fill the shells at whim or just shoot the cream directly into your mouth. You really need to try them.