Minor Gourmandry

New York: Doughnut Plant

Even after sampling the supposed Eden of Eats, NYC, I'm still confident that Philly's array of eateries can rival the Apple's own offerings. While our fair city can't compete in sheer magnitude, there's still a picking for every food enthusiast -- gourmet, ethnic, or otherwise. And though Philadelphia may be unable to rival the frou frou dining scene in New York, our smaller city can cite one indefatigable advantage: less fuss. This translates to less transportation hassle and easier choices (Philly is like New York's Whitman Sampler: enough to satisfy, but not enough to give you a headache). Not to mention you'll probably save a few (tens) in Philly.

That precursor out of the way, let's get to the food at hand. Philly seems like prime territory for the delectable and wholly sinful holed treat -- the doughnut -- but no purveyors have delivered the goods. Won't someone give Dunkin Donuts a run for its money (especially when coffee is becoming the chain's top priority)? It's too bad, because New York City has both mass produced and provincial baking contenders. I could do without the former, but god do I want a Doughnut Plant!

Nestled next to the Williamsburg bridge in Lower Manhattan, Doughnut Plant bakes up sheet upon sheet of gourmet doughnuts that'll make you reconsider your morning muffin. Though the cramped storefront is lacking in square footage (three pairs of feet and the place is elbow room only), the kitchen area in back is large enough to pump out doughnuts for a profitable wholesale and bulk order business (Dean & Deluca is a notable buyer). I'm glad the Plant keeps its retail roots at heart, because eating a freshly baked doughtnut off its baking sheet is a glorious experience. (And no, I haven't tried this at a Krispy Kreme.)

Inside the store, a slab of counter separates customers from a very tall, very enticing rack holding sheets of fresh doughnuts. Next to the sheets that are at eye level juts tags with groan-inducing descrptions: Valrhona Chocolate, Vanilla-Bean, Banana with Pecan. Doughnut Plant is no powdered sugar puff pusher.

Sitting at the other end of the counter, is a flexi-glass-covered box of cake donuts -- smaller relatives of the yeast-risen variety placed the rack. I call these dougnuts "relatives" of the yeast variety because they offer a few distinct differences, some of which I'd call an advantage. Though smaller, the cake doughnuts give a heartier but still cleaner bite; the yeast ones may require a little gnashing to chew through the airier insides. The cake type tends also to be sweeter, as the batter and compact shape allow for increased sweetness per square bite (got me?).

That said, when it comes to the filled doughnuts (the jams, the creams), clawing through a nice hand-sized, "old-fashioned," yeast-risen doughnut is an age-defying bliss. During one trip to Doughnut Plant, I decided to go big and get a yeast-risen Blueberry doughnut. The squarish lavender colored treat was speckled with real blueberry bits. I expected a mouthful of blueberry sweetness, but my first bite left me disappointed; the blueberry flavor played second fiddle to the flour-yeast combo. Definitely could have used a bit more sweet, so I'd recommend getting the cakey Blueberry version.

A second trip had me searching the countertop case for a cake-type. Anxious but unable to choose just one, I asked the staffer to recommend a favorite. I walked out of the shop with a Tres Leches doughnut ($1.50 for the smaller type). Damn good pick, sir. Not only was the cracked glaze a delight, but the heavenly cream filling -- a lightly caramel-flavored cream reminding of creme caramel -- almost had me sprinting back for another. Highly recommended!

So, in conclusion...we're all waiting Philadelphia. I demand gourmet doughnuts for the good of our morning consumption! Till Philly whips up a hometown competitor, perhaps Doughnut Plant'll consider a local branch?

Location: 379 Grand Street (Lower East Side, Manhattan)

At Blush, style is served first

With a desire to age better than its predecessors, Blush has opened its doors for Summer. The Bryn Mawr nook in which Blush now resides has been home to headaches and ill omens for careless restaurateurs and careful veteran chefs alike. Despite the looming history of failures, the location is much too stupendous to remain vacant. Enter chef and first-time owner Nicholas Farina. Farina honed his skills at the NYC's The Grand Tier (Metropolitan Opera House)  before becoming chef de cuisine at Solaris Grille in Chestnut Hill. Though Blush is Farina's first restaurant, elements of his last kitchen have been drafted over to the new -- both menus are refined American cuisine (familiar items with a forgein twist). If Solaris could win over the younger rollers of Chestnut Hill, Farina must hope to woo the swanks of the Main Line with a similar formula.

With its Bourdeaux-hued tapestries and massive wine selection, Faina aims to create a more demure atmosphere for dining and sipping. While the restaurant claims to be casual-friendly, the chandeliers and comely maple tables suggest upscale dining. I expect they'll be catering to more than a couple private parties this Summer. But hey, if you want to don your sport shorts and sit on the second-floor Veranda (what a gorgeous view!), feel right at...um...home.

Though the indoor space was cool, the recent sweltering heat begged for outdoor seating. Blush can seat several parties outdoors, so do yourself and your company a favor and ask for the "Veranda" in advance. With the wind blowing and the sun gleaming, the food is almost secondary...almost.

Upon a quick one-over, the appetizers read appealingly, with their bold and bright ingredients:  PEI Mussels, Sweet Potato Ravioli, "Cigar" (fried won-ton) wraps of Lobster, Marscapone Cheese, and Scallions. A few daily soups and substantial salads filled out the first course choices.

Intrigued by the prospect of a lip-curling dessert menu, all diners present opted to save room by going straight to the entrees. Though my eyes hovered over the Pineapple and Tequilla Glazed Duck for several tense moments, the evening rays reminded me of lazy dinners at the shore. At the shore, you eat fish. Plancha Seared Grouper, with an enticing poblano shrimp griddle cake side, seemed a premium choice.

After a belly-readying wait (a euphemism, but the climate eroded impatience), my Grouper arrived plump atop an artful pat of griddle cake and surrounded by grill-marked carrots and asparagus spears. Attractive plates are a plus -- each plate was visually appetizing -- but one bite into the undercooked carrots undermined that appeal. The grilled veggies were more of a garnish than a side. The slab of grouper was rich with seasoning, but the cut was too thick for pepper to save it. Grouper is not a typically flavorful fish, so some splashes of lemon would have been well worth the effort. The griddle cake was paired with a creamy shrimp sauce, so that abetted the desperate fish. The poblano shrimp cake really saved the plate. Its flavors fully impacted; first buttery cornbread, then lightly spicy shrimp.

The Pan Seared Scallops with sundried tomato mashed potato(es) offered the opposite problem -- the main component was delicious, with its slightly sweet balsamic reduction, but the main side, the mashed potatoes, were served at room temperature. It seems the kitchen staff has yet to gel completely, leading to some timing errors and subpar peices. If Farina is aiming for upscale dining, he will need to tighten these loose screws or he will find himself as another Bryn Mawr vagrant.

The dessert menu was fine (pretty typical fair, i.e. Apple Tart, Tiramisu, Chocolate Mousse cake..), but not as lip-lickingly awesome as we'd hoped. Two diners opted for solely for coffee, and one for gelato (vanilla and chocolate). Without a clear winner on the dessert menu (all $7), I opted for the taste of three desserts ($7). A tiny cuplet of chocolate ice cream arrived alongside a chocolate mousse tartlet and a lemon meringue tartlet. The ice cream was a cool but quickly melting dark chocolate. The chocolate mousse tartlet suffered from a very bland shell, but the lemon "chiffon" tartlet was a cool lemon curd with just the right bite. My recommendation, skip the rest and GO LEMON!

While not much at this new Main Line wine and dine warrants excitement, Blush does offer a satisfying menu with enough appeal, for me, to warrant a second try. The wine and spirits offered also argue in the restaurant's favor. Great cocktails, decent beer selection, and a detailed and wide array of wine and champagn. Get yourself a seat on the Veranda, a Caribbean cocktail, and prosper as you swallow one of those Lobster Cigars.

Location and contact:

24 North Merion Avenue
Bryn Mawr, PA 19010
Phone: 610-527-7700

 

No longer a diamond in the rough, Sovalo is still a gem

Inquirer food critic, Craig LaBan, recently released his "Bells of 2005" to highlight the year's restaurant reviews. Out of over fifty new-ish restaurants reviewed in 2005, only six received above 2 bells. None received a perfect score.

Scrolling through the list, I noted a couple of restaurants I had sworn to try. At the top of that list was Sovalo; coincidentally, it also topped LaBan's list with a 3-bell review. Researching further, I found Citypaper gave the restaurant a glowing review, and included it in their year-end wrap. Lauren McCutcheon of PW, however, was unimpressed by Sovalo's hype and failed to mention it in her review of 2005. Though fine dining is too expensive a venue to debunk critical controversies, the overwhelmingly positive ring of Sovalo's reviews drew me to the Northern Liberties restaurant (I mean, we're talking 3 bells).

Sovalo has the added attraction of being Philly's next (if it isn't already) boomtown. Just peruse the community's bulletin-cum-webpage, and you'll find several places new & old that are on the dining hotlist: Pura Vida, N. 3rd, Azure. There's a bevy of great coffee shops, one for every hip clique. Lucky for the expat Californian couple who own Sovalo, they nabbed the nicest building in the area. Several massive windows protrude vertically from the ground, giving the interior the illusion of being spacious. The color scheme is appropriate for a So-Cal Italian restaurant: sleek blacks, midnight maroons, wood floors, and floral upholstered walls. Each table is dimly lit by a sole candle (bloggers beware, your photos will suck).

The monthly menu is composed of four sections: Antipasta, Pasta, Secondi, and Contorni (vegetables & sides); and this month, "Gennaio," is overwhelmed with attractve options. I appreciated the careful pairing of ingredients for the menu's several salads. Rarely has a salad selection distracted me from the rest of the appetizers. I decided upon the Blood orange, pistachio, and watercress salad (8.95), which came atop a thin mat of sliced sopressata. The salad was dressed with no more than a simple oil, but the rich oil of the roast pistachios and dripping juice of the blood orange slices provided more than enough dressing. The sopressata was wowing, due to its encompassing flavor, which included the citrus flavor of the blood orange. Want to avoid the leaf? My second choice was easily the mouth-wateringly attractive Sweet breads and chanterelles with apple mantecato and pomegranate.

For a second course, the decision fell between the heartier Secondi section (Braised pork shoulder, mushroom-stuffed quail), or the enticing Pasta one. One look at the Bartlett pear, onion, and fontina ravioli and the menu was shut. Every element I could ask for in a filled-pasta was present: a bold cheese, toothable but not tough pasta, and an intriguing filling The slightly sour caramel of the onion and the sweet pear bits caused me to sigh in delight. The pasta packets were surrounded by a brown butter sauce spiked with crisped bits of sage. (And you thought the dish couldn't get any better? $13.95)

Replacing my white pasta plate was the menu for the final course: Dolci. The selections are more complementary than supplementarty, as Sovalo has no pastry chef and therefore avoids that fields grandeur. Still..(options...). I selected the Florentine Hot Chocolate. The oblong plate came with a palm-sized cup of melted bittersweet chocolate and a duo of Amaretti and almond biscotti. The 8oz cup held an intense bittersweet chocolate liquid - no compaints on flavor - with the consistency of slightly gloopy coffee. The hot water (no milk here) only partially melted the blocks of chocolate, giving the drink its disappointing texture. Though not all reviewers were equally impressed, the low-rise Chocolate Hazelnut Torta dolloped with whipped cinnamon marscapone pleasured the palates of my two dining partners.

It's not hard to tell why Sovalo had LaBan ringing a trio bells: the location, the nuance (slates of freshly baked bread and herbed butter), and the desire (the owners make sure the waitstaff is convincingly concerned). The menu is endlessly attractive, though not particularly daring, and well-priced for the care and quality. Simply put, Sovalo is a restaurant to get excited about. Spread the word.

Location: 702 N. Second St. (Philadelphia, PA 19123)

For Reservations: 215-413-7770

Pucker-free Lemon Bundt Cake

Looking for a lip-licking Lemon Poundcake recipe, I picked up the latest Cook's Illustrated's (Jan/Feb '06) issue. No poundcake, but a "Best Lemon Bundt" on page 25. According to Cook's, poundcake has "lots" of fat and "not much" liquid, which contributes to its rich and compact crumb; a Bundt is supposed to have a moist, rich, but a tad lighter crumb, with moderate amounts of fat and liquid. From experience, a bakery-made slice of poundcake is hefty in the hand, whereas a Bundt weighs less and has visibly less moisture.

Knowing Cook's ouevre, you'd know they each article involves forming the "best" recipe from about 38 trial-and-error versions. The writers/cooks give new meaning to the "learn from your mistakes" adage. While it's hard to argue with their exhaustive methodology, I've had some beef with my results using their recipes. All ill-will aside, Cook's Illustrated is a wonderful magazine for the meticulous chef, or the curious cook with the ambitions of a pro but the trappings of a home kitchen.

Cook's Illustrated's recipe, with my alterations and notes:

  Cake

A (wet 1)

Grated zest of 3 Lemons plus…

3 tbsp of lemon juice (from the 3 lemons you juiced thoroughly)

B (Dry)

3 cups (15 ounces) ap flour

1 tsp. baking powder

½ tsp. baking soda

1 tsp. salt

C (wet 2)

1tsp vanilla extract

¾ cup buttermilk

D

3 large eggs PLUS 1 egg yolk [combine yolk and 3 eggs with a little whisking]

E

18 tbsp. (2 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter around room temp.

2 cups (14 ounces) sugar

  Glazzze

2-3 tbsp. lemon juice [I advise you use 2 tbsp., and then whisk in another 1/2-1 tbsp. before pouring]

1 tbsp. buttermilk

2 cups (8 ounces) confectioner’s sugar

- Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees,

- Spray baking spray with flour on a 12-cup Bundt Pan (Nordic Ware platinum-series is recommended by Cook’s. I used an older, super sturdy Nordic pan, but I felt it sucked up too heat due to its black nonstick insides).

- you need 3 small bowls (one should be at least big enough to hold all of the Dry), 1 medium (for glaze)

1. Mince the lemon zest and let it macerate in the bowl of lemon juice (remove those seeds though) for 10-15 minutes.

2. Whisk together dry B-ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.

3. In a standing mixer, whip E together on medium-high for about 1 min. 30 seconds. Scrape down the sides before proceeding.

4. Place half the egg mix (D) into the bowl, and combine on low speed. Repeat with the rest of the egg mix.

5. Now, take the dry B-ingredients and put 1/3rd of that into the standing mixer. Combine A and C (the wet), and then pour half of that into the mixer.

[Yes, it’s important to not just dump it in altogether. Stay focused!] Another 1/3rd of B, and then the rest of wet A/C (buttermilk, lemon juice, and so forth).

6. Combine the last 1/3rd of dry B on low. After about 10-20 secs, very little flour should be visible – although some flour along the sides of the bowl is excusable.

7. Scrape the batter (it should be pretty thick) into the prepared Bundt pan, and work it into the pockets of the pan.

8. Bake the Bundt for 45-50 minutes. (My DARK pan went for 36; ‘twas a clean toothpick if you need to know…)

9. GLAZE: Whisk of all the glaze ingredients together in a small-medium bowl. Glaze should be thick, delicious, and pourable.

10. When the cake comes out of the oven, let it sit for 10 minutes, and then reverse the cake onto some cooling surface. Pour 1/2 to 2/3rd of the glaze around the cake. The glaze should not just slop off the sides, it should stick in most places.

11. Allow 1 hour for cooling, and finish the cake. Then wait as long as you can (like 10 minutes) before eating the crap out of it.

Using the two exclusive glazings, the final Bundt will have a delicate white frost that presents well and holds in flavor for several days after baking. The cake should be ultra-delicious, and even if you screw up and bake some of the lemon flavor out of the cake itself, you have the delicious glaze to save you. Hooray!

The cake stayed delicious for three days. It won't last any longer, because someone will surely have eaten it by then

Check out this eGullet thread (no registration required) for more lemon cake/bar/etc recipes.