Always on the lookout for a gourmet bargain, I knew I'd found a possible haunt when I read critic Lauren McCutcheon's latest PW column. She gloated over an eclectic contemporary menu with modest prices, although reservedly, so as not to loose her bar stool when the foodies flocked. Southwark is located on the corner of Bainbridge and 4th Street, a lot formerly occupied by a tiny bistro called Tartine. Although many were sad to see the little slice of France depart, I'm sure they'll find something to love with its replacement.
Southwark ostensibly follows the BYO ethic, supplying creative contemporary dishes at a reasonable price (entrees in the $14-19 range). But once you step inside, you'll find a bar well-populated by Queen Village/South Street denizens. Serving the liquied is a co-owner/bartender who's a pencil of a man, with a fiery, but artsy goatee. Moments of waiting later, a kindly maitre d' ushered us back to the dining room, which was really only a sliver of space (with some additional outside seating in the summer). Each table was romantically lit, but a crabshack-like paper mat covered the nice table cloth. I guess they've gotta make the dough somehow.
The menu was filled with some trendier menu choices, similar to those I've seen at places like Marigold, Farmicia, and Django (not coincidentally, one of Southwark's proprietors is a former co-owner of the latter). The Crab Beignets "small plate" jumped out at me at first glance - mmm...crab doughnuts. Trendiness was apparent in the braised Veal Cheeks option, as well as in their tendency to enwrap items in puffed pastry. Hey man, that's cool with me. The Famer's Platter also looked quite appealing, especially because I'm a sucker for anything with fromage. I coaxed my dining partners into ordering it so we could all "share." I rarely order these cheese and meat plates, as I'll crudely refer to them, typically because many trustworthy Chowhounds brush them off as restaurant pandering. Diners are suckered into spending 2-3 times the cost of the actual items. For $14, Southwark's Farmer's Platter lacked a substantial cheese alottment, but the array of olives, meats, and breads made up for the shortcoming - venison carpaccio (the best of the bunch), cured pork, capicolla, a vennison/rabbit liver/prune terrine...the good stuff.
I was all ready to order my little crab puffs when the waitress (an winsome Asian female not unlike Sandra Oh in Sideways) read the specials: "...and roasted Sweet Breads on a cheesebread custard with a raspberry coulis." Vagaries of the sweet pillows Marigold Kitchen treated me to caused my head to swirl. I'll take those thymus glands thank you. 
Our appetizers arrived and much deglutition occured. Now, as I mentioned, the table were romantically lit, or very stark. This compromised any photos I managed to shoot, that's why the sweetbread's picture is awful. Eventually I just gave up my toiling - I couldn't let photography compromise the food! As usual they were glorious little pillows of gland, slighty crusty exterior and smooth interior, like that of sushi-grade fish. The raspberry was a little odd, more paired to the polenta-like cheesebread custard than the focus. The appetizer was $11, a tad pricey, but how many times a year do you eat sweetbreads?
On to the "large plates." On dining comrad ordered a cornmeal crusted "then pan-fried" Rainbow Trout in a shallot oil, the other, a Cod (no, they didn't forget to embellish; it was a special, so I forget the details. But I do remember many ahhs coming from the diner's general direction). I tried the Trout and found the crust had mostly muddled flavors, nothing great. I myself had the pomegranate Rabbit Loin, which simmered over rabbit confit ragout. Beans and winter vegetables floated among the succulent rabbit confit. The loin itself was slightly singed due to the grilling, sacrificing most of the pomegranate flavor. I would describe the taste of my grilled rabbit as somewhere between pork and chicken. I must say, after my fabulous rabbit confit dish at Le Bar Lyonnais, this one fell short of lofty expectations. But let's keep prices in context here...
Finally, our desserts arrived. Southwark's dessert selection isn't as enticing as the rest of the menu, partially due to their lack of a true pastry chef. My comrads split the petit cheesecake special, which was skimpy for two, but fine for a solo - that means I didn't get to try. I chose the Honey-Mascarpone Crepes, something I would be comfortable making in my own kitchen. The plate arrived with four little crepes, perfectly done and a satisfying conclusion. The sweet-savoury balance of crepes are perfect for those times when you cannot stomach the molten chocolate cake.
After sipping on a tasty cappuccino, and munching on the tiny amaretto complement, I concluded that Southwark was a keeper. It's no revelation for Philly's restaurant scene, but it is a welcomed addition to the pack. With an inventive menu that nearly delivers, it's primed to become a hotspot.
location: 701 S. 4th St., Philadelphia
With reviews on various restaurant, I can get an second opinion on which restaurant to go next. Me and my friends roams around the city with my car to find a good place to eat spend our time by enjoying good food, then afterwards, we go to our favorite bar and drink beer.
Posted by: shopping in Destin | February 02, 2011 at 01:59 AM
fine review (and the picture of the sweetbreads is good, too).
Went to Southwark for brunch a couple weeks ago. Our server had a great knack for recommending things that irresistably resonated with me (blood orange mimosa, etc.). I ordered the special "dayboat cod" (the waiter made it sound like "de bon cod") and enjoyed one of the best dishes I have eaten in a long time: pristine fish perfectly cooked over a delightful bed of wild rice and young spinach. The more traditional brunch menu was good, the cod special outstanding.
Posted by: epices66 | February 25, 2005 at 07:00 PM
fine review (and the picture of the sweetbreads is good, too).
Went to Southwark for brunch a couple weeks ago. Our server had a great knack for recommending things that irresistably resonated with me (blood orange mimosa, etc.). I ordered the special "dayboat cod" (the waiter made it sound like "de bon cod") and enjoyed one of the best dishes I have eaten in a long time: pristine fish perfectly cooked over a delightful bed of wild rice and young spinach. The more traditional brunch menu was good, the cod special outstanding.
Posted by: epices66 | February 25, 2005 at 06:59 PM